Riding the Harley Ultra Classic CVO
By Mike & Christa Moellenkamp, JustGoMoto Inc. “What are you waiting for? Just GO!”
By the time Pennsylvania rolled around, this was our third long-distance motorcycle trip. By now we felt that we had the whole “planning” thing down to a science — but no 'time' for planning. This trip, we ditched the spreadsheets, hotel reservations, and meticulously mapped photo stops. Instead, we just hopped on the Harley Davidson Ultra Classic CVO and decided to let the road take the lead. No plan. No stress. Just ride, see what happens, and hope for the best.
Turns out, sometimes “winging it” works out beautifully.
Kinzua Bridge State Park - Sky high and loving it
Our first major find was Kinzua Bridge State Park — and wow, what a jaw-dropper. The old Kinzua Viaduct once stood as one of the highest and longest railroad bridges in the world... until a tornado tore it apart in 2003. What’s left has been turned into the Kinzua Skywalk — a 624-foot-long glass-floored walkway that juts out 225 feet above the Kinzua Gorge.
Awe-inspired:
Walking out there, you get a mix of awe, adrenaline, and maybe a little vertigo. The panoramic views of the gorge and the rolling Pennsylvania hills covered in autumn colors? Pure magic. Just don’t look down too long if you’re afraid of heights — or do, if you like your heart rate at “rollercoaster mode.”
Pine Creek Gorge
(a.k.a. The PA Grand Canyon)
The Accidental Discovery
Next up, we stumbled onto something called the Grand Canyon of Pennsylvania — yes, apparently that’s a thing! Officially known as Pine Creek Gorge, it’s an 800-foot-deep masterpiece carved by ancient glacial floods, tucked between Colton Point State Park and Leonard Harrison State Park.
The ride there? A dream — smooth curves, forest roads, and that unbeatable mix of pine air and Harley rumble. The overlooks on both sides are worth every mile. Standing there, looking down into the gorge, we had that perfect road-trip moment: total peace, total wonder, total “how did we even find this place?”
Sometimes the best spots aren’t on the itinerary — because, well, we didn’t have one.
The Susquehanna Trail - Riding through history
Somewhere along the way, our wheels met the legendary Susquehanna Trail — a route that once connected Washington, D.C. to Niagara Falls. Long before GPS, this was the highway adventurers took through Baltimore, Harrisburg, Williamsport, and up toward Buffalo.
Between 1926 and 1963, it carried the proud name U.S. Route 111. Today, it’s a mix of scenic backroads and timeworn stretches that whisper tales of early American road trips — the kind done in rumbling Model Ts, not chrome-loaded Harleys. Riding it now feels like flipping through the pages of history... only louder.
The Historic Inn at Jim Thorpe - A rest with character
When you’re ready to wind down after a long day of riding, Jim Thorpe is the perfect place to do it. A town so charming it almost looks like a movie set. The Historic Inn at Jim Thorpe, built in 1849, was our perfect day finale — right in the heart of the town’s National Register Historic District.
If you love history, this place will speak to your soul — creaky floors, old-world charm, and stories in every brick. If you love long rides, it’ll speak to your backside — with beds that feel like a hug after hours in the saddle.
We enjoyed our stay so much we ended up staying there an extra night just to explore the little town with so much character.
Picnic Lunches - Dining à la trailer
One of the biggest perks of towing a motorcycle trailer? Instant kitchen-on-wheels. We love Mom and Pop Diners, but this trip:
Forget hunting down restaurants or watching the clock for lunch breaks — we had our own mobile picnic setup. When hunger hit, we’d just pull over somewhere scenic, unpack our cooler, and boom — five-star dining with a million-dollar view.
Plus, some of the backroads we took were so remote, the nearest café might’ve been in another time zone. Having food and water on hand wasn’t just convenient — it was survival. And somehow, sandwiches always taste better beside your motorcycle.
Hoagland Vista - Curves, hills and endless views
If you ever need proof that Pennsylvania was built for motorcycles, stop at Hoagland Vista in Loyalsock State Forest. Standing there, surrounded by rolling green hills and twisting valleys, you start to understand why this state is a rider’s paradise.
In over a week of exploring, we counted maybe a handful of flat, straight km/miles. Everything else was glorious curves, climbs, and descents — the kind that make you grin inside your helmet. At Hoagland Vista, it all comes together in one breathtaking panorama. Pennsylvania: one big, beautiful rollercoaster.
Worlds End State Park — Riding to the Edge (Sort of)
You can’t pass a sign that says “Worlds End” and not stop. We half-expected Captain Jack Sparrow to pop out from behind a tree when we pulled in.
No pirates, no bottomless waterfalls — just pristine scenery and one of Pennsylvania’s most underrated state parks. The ranger assured us the only thing “ending” here was the road, not the world. Apparently, there’s a fantastic mix of paved and gravel roads through Worlds End and Loyalsock State Forest following the creek, perfect for a future adventure.
We didn’t hit the dirt trails, this trip. Next time, we might just go find them— eye patches optional.
Historic Genetti's hotel — Haunted History & Happy Hour
When you hear a hotel might be haunted, you book it — obviously. So we rolled into Williamsport and checked into the Historic Genetti Hotel, which opened in 1922 back when logging money made the town boom.
Stories claim the 8th floor is haunted by a priest and a young girl — though no one seems to agree on the details. What we do know is that the hotel’s hosted everyone from Eleanor Roosevelt to Little League World Series royalty.
Our stay was spook-free and supremely comfortable — and the night ended perfectly across the street at the Bullfrog Brewery, with good food, cold pints, and plenty of laughter. If there were ghosts, they were definitely enjoying the live music too.
Fin, Fur & Feather — A Classic Roadside Gem
Some roadside stops are so perfect, they feel like they were dreamed up just for travelers. The Fin, Fur & Feather Trading Post (and its sidekick, the Black Bear Diner) is one of those spots.
Located on Route 44, about 24km/15 miles north of Lock Haven, it’s the kind of place where you go in for a snack and come out with a full belly and a novelty item you didn’t know you needed. The old gas station’s gone now, but the diner’s still dishing out homemade comfort food worth turning around for. Trust us — you’ll talk about it so much, you’ll plan another trip just to go back.
Fin, Fur & Feather Trading Post
17770 PA-44, Lock Haven, PA 17745, United States
Allegheny National Forest — The Road That Wasn’t
Few things sting more than a “ROAD CLOSED” sign after km/miles of perfect riding — especially when the Allegheny National Forest (PA-666) is your destination.
We got there, found the barrier, and just stared at it like, really? The first half of the ride had been spectacular — all forested curves, smooth asphalt, and that wild, woodsy smell. If the open section was that good, the closed half must be legendary.
We made a pact right there: next Pennsylvania trip, we’re coming back to finish what we started.
On It — A Tree Roadblock, and a Twist of Luck
Just when we thought the surprises were over, Pennsylvania had one more in store. We were rolling along a backroad, minding our own business, when we rounded a corner and — boom — tree across the road.
A local waved us down, and we stopped to wait for the removal crew. Turning back would’ve meant a three-hour detour, so we kicked back, swapped road stories, and enjoyed the pause.
An hour later, the road was clear, and we were back on the throttle — proof that sometimes, the best parts of the ride aren’t the ones you plan for. They’re the ones that find you.
RIDE SUMMARY
“The Unplanned Plan Worked”
Every twist, every wrong turn, every random discovery made this ride unforgettable. Pennsylvania proved itself a motorcyclist’s dream — from forested mountain passes to historic trails and unplanned detours that became highlights.
Lesson learned: Sometimes the best plan is no plan at all.
Quick Ride Facts
- Mission: No plans, no stress, all adventure
- Trip Duration: 8 days
- Bike: 2009 Harley-Davidson Ultra Classic CVO
- Region: North & Central Pennsylvania
- Highlights: Kinzua Skywalk, Pine Creek Gorge, Worlds End State Park, Susquehanna Trail, and the Historic Inn at Jim Thorpe
- Total Distance: ~3009km / 1,869 miles (give or take a few wrong turns)
⛑ Gear Tip: Trailer Setup for Touring
A compact trailer changes everything. Carry a case of water, extra boots, rain gear without the “Tetris pack.” Bonus: It doubles as a mobile picnic basket.
Best Roads
- PA Route 44 (“Highway to Heaven”) – Endless sweepers and forest canopies (Pine Creek Gorge)
- PA Route 6 – Classic scenic highway across the northern tier
- Susquehanna Trail / US 111 (Historic) – Ride through living history
- Winslow Hill Road Elk Viewing Areas - Watch for elk on Pennsylvania roads. Take safety precautions: Drive slowly and cautiously in the designated elk ranges of Elk and Cameron counties, especially at dusk and dawn.
✌️ Final Thought
Not every trip needs a plan. Sometimes, the open road just asks for a “yes.”
And if it happens to wind through Pennsylvania, all the better.
So pack light, don’t overthink it, and…